Tips for making belt wearing more tolerable

Altairboy,

I read the latest evaluation of a Walter Goethal's belt (Walter Goethal's Number 234). Like the author, I also found several comfort problems when I first received my Goethal's semi-heavy belt. These are the things I have done to make the belt tolerable for usage over a long period (e.g. many weeks).

As described by the author of the review, the drain holes in the penis tube have slight burrs on their edges on the inside of the tube. These burrs are left by the drill bit used to create the drain holes. I found that the burrs are not metal burrs, but instead are plastic burrs that are part of the inside coating of the tube. Each hole has to be deburred by hand, removing the sharp plastic edges left by the drilling process. Since the holes are located within the tube beyond the reach of tools (remember that a Walter's tube is tightly curved), the deburring of the holes has to be done from the outside.

The concept here is to basically create a very thin, curved edge knife (the deburring tool) that you use to scape off the rough edges of the plastic coating left when the drain holes were drilled. Unless you have a well stocked tool shop, a deburring tool will first need to be made. Take an old hack saw blade, and using a bench grinder, grind one end of the blade, creating a very thin, curved hook. The hook has to be thinner than the width of a drain hole. Once the hook has been created, again using the grinder, sharpen the inside curve of the hook like you would if sharpening a knife. Wrap the rest of the blade with masking or shipping tape creating a handle. Place the curved hook into each drain hole. While pushing the cutting edge of the curved hook against the inside edge of the hole, turn the deburring tool 360 degrees several times. This will remove the sharp edges. Be careful to scrape and not dig into the tube creating new sharp edges.

You may want to also lightly sand the inside of the tube with wet finishing sand paper (e.g. Wet and Dry 400 grit or better). This is hard to do because of the curve of the tube. Remember that the tube is plastic coated very thinly, so don't sand too long and don't sand with a heavy grit dry paper.

The next major problem that needs addressing is the corner edges of all the pieces of metal. Walter does a fine job of cutting the belt's metal pieces and sanding / polishing them so there are no sharp edges. However, all of the edges have very precise cuts on them that cause a lot of skin irratation, especially around the locking plate and piece that runs vertically in the back. The edges need to be rounded ever so slightly to reduce the skin irritation. Buy a carbide grinding bit for a hand drill at your local hardware store. Lightly grind the edges of every metal piece, rounding the corners. Not a lot of metal needs to be removed, just enough to round the edges. Take your time and don't let the grinder dig in or leave cuts in the metal that may cut you.

The penis tube has two other problems that I found. The tube has a black plastic covered metal ring at its opening that is supposed to reduce the irritation of the tube pushing up against the skin. I found that this ring causes edema (blood pooling at the end of the penis) because it reduces the circumference of the tube opening and basically acts as a cock ring any time an erection occurs. I found that by removing the ring and rounding the edges of the tube with the grinding bit as described above, the edema was greatly cut down without loosing comfort.

The tube is attached to the bottom of the locking plate at the top of the tube. On the outside of the tube, a curved metal "U" shaped rod is welded to both the tube and the plate as a reinforcement. One of the unfortunate effects of the curved tube used in Walter's design is that the wearer's balls don't have a place to naturally lie and are forced to sit seperated on each side of the tube. When sitting, the legs put a lot of pressure on the balls, forcing them against the outside of the tube. I found that the ends of the support rod caused extreme irritation to the skin on my balls because the welding process left bumps in the metal that acted as pressure points. To correct this, on each side of the tube, the end of the support rod had to be ground down considerably, removing all points that can become pressure points. Care has to be taken here to not remove too much metal and weaken the weld. Walter should seriously consider relocating this support so that it connects to the penis tube on the top and not the sides.

I also found that where the ends of the belt go into the locking plate, pinching of the skin can occur. This can be prevented by folding a Kleenex along the long side several times and placing it along the top edge of the locking plate, between the metal and the skin. Make sure it covers the points where the ends of the belt enter the locking plate.

This may all seem like a lot of work to do, but it takes about an hour to complete if you already have a bench grinder and a grinding bit for your drill or dremel tool. The end result of this work is a belt that can be worn for weeks at a time or longer without much discomfort. Always make sure you take the appropriate steps to make a belt wearable before giving your key holder the key and instructions to not let you out for a month. Otherwise, it may be a very long and painful month.

GoldenDog

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Page last updated 01-Sep-04 by: Altairboy@aol.com