Home Built Plastic Chastity Belt
Submitted by: Secured in Plastic
Dear Altairboy,
I have been interested in chastity belts for about 7 years now.
Although I never fooled around on my wife, I could not control myself
in the shower. I am very happily married now almost 15 years to the
first girl I even dated. We enjoy making each other happy but I knew
my loss of control in the shower was hurting my sexual desires for her.
I first started toying with idea of not being able to touch myself
or have an orgasm in 1993. At that point I was not aware that a chastity
device could be made for longer wear. It was not until 1998 when I first
got connected to the internet that I learned more about chastity belts.
Thanks to your site, I was enlightened, and now wear a belt of my own
making for various reasons. Most of what I learned came from your site
or your links to other sites. Again I say Thanks.
Having a good chastity device is important to me but there is always
an issue of money and then the problem of metal and metal detectors, therefore,
I set out on a quest to build a safe secure non-metallic device. What I end up
with is cross between a Tollyboy and a Goethals belt. I like the idea of a belt
on the hips rather than tightly on the waist for a few reasons. It does not need
to be as tight and allows for freedom of movement more than a tight waist belt.
The penis tube and crotch shield is more like a Tollyboy for a lower profile
keeping everything tucked up nice and tight. It is made four materials, Heavy
Rubbermaid plastic from a heavy duty waste basket for the belt and shield,
electrical PVC elbow for the penis tube, nylon cotton web strapping for the rear
straps, and nylon screws glued and sealed to hold it together.
The reason for plastic is obvious, embarrassing metal detectors. My job
frequently takes me official office buildings, high schools, and colleges. I
have no warning when I might run into a metal detector and have to explain myself
to a lot of people.
The current device has been fine tuned since March and has been locked on for
a week with no problems. If I have made it this far, it is ready now for permanent
use. The only reason the belt is removed is when my wife wants to be satisfied.
We are leaving it locked for at least two weeks with no breaks to see what effect
it has on my sexual desires during which time I must please my wife orally as she
desires and watch as she takes advantage of her other toys.
I will make an attempt to describe the belt's construction and I have attached
pictures of the belt on display and modeled. I was in the belt for 4 days and removed
it to take the pictures. After the display pictures were taken, it was locked back in
place where it has been ever since. I no longer have the keys, I have no idea where
they are. My wife mentioned leaving them at her work place on a permanent basis. If I
have to make a trip where I will possibly come across a metal detector, the metal locks
will be removed and replaced by serial number locks and zip ties sealed with super glue.
The main nylon bolts are also sealed with super glue. The only way out is a drummel tool
to cut the bolts or heavy shears to cut the belt. As far as security goes, even a steel
belt can be removed with a drummel tool so this is rather effective for plastic.
The belt and front shield
I started with a small desk-type trash can from Rubbermaid that uses plastic
about 1/16th inch thick. The top of the can had a wave design convenient to curve
up and over the hips. The circumference of the top was close the required length as
well. I sliced a two inch strip of the top with a drummel tool and cut it in the
middle to make the belt. I placed it just over the my hips and marked where I needed
to trim it for the most comfort. I kept it wide in the rear center and drilled and
anchor hole in the lowest point for attaching a butt plug strap or hand cuffs when
desired. The ends of the belt got two holes, one hole for the nylon bolt, the other
for the lock. Next comes the front shield. I measured the distance between the ends
of the belt to find the width that the top of the shield must be. I then measured down
to about an inch in front of the anus opening. The crotch shield narrows down to about
1 1/2 inches in the center or bottom of the crotch.
The penis tube
The penis tube is made from 1 3/8 ID gray PVC elbow from the local Home Depot.
The elbow was cut in half (that gave me two shots to get it right) with my trusty
dremmel tool. measuring from anus to the bottom of my penis shaft gave me the length
of the inside curve of the elbow. I found that was causing marks at the base of my
penis and had to make it shorter. When sitting, the tube would push up and dig into
my shaft. Allowing for the right amount of space was the tricky part. The outside
length of the elbow was determined by measuring from anus all the way up to a point
where the penis could not be pulled up to. I drilled three holes about 1 1/2 inches
apart in the outside center of the tube from 1/4 inch from the top and one in the
bottom end about 1/4 inch up. These four holes took the nylon screws that hold it
to the shield. The heads of the screws were countersunk in the tube and sanded smooth.
Once mounted, the screws are sealed with super glue. The bottom end of the tube is
mostly closed off by using a plastic funnel and cutting the end of it off at a point as
wide as the outside diameter of the tube. The length of the urine outlet can be trimmed
down and the whole made as wide as desired. I found the small funnel works well with
an opening about 1/4 to 3/8 inches wide. I have also tried using inserts made of travel
size shampoo bottles but capping the tube seem much more comfortable.
The rear straps
The rear straps are 1 inch nylon strapping from the local Wal-Mart. The strap is
attached to the nylon screw in the bottom of the penis tube by folding the strap over
itself to create a "V". The nylon screw was pushed through the strap and secured with
a washer and nut glued in place. The straps go snuggly over the ass cheeks to a point
about 4 inches each side from the rear center of the belt, about 8 inches total. The
strap is folded to make three layers then fastened to the belt using two nylon screws
sealed with glue. The straps need to be attached to inside of the belt between the belt
and skin surface so the belt compresses in on the straps. The straps also need to be
folded outward towards the belt for greater comfort. The screws used here had shallow heads
that are drawn tight into the nylon strap and do not dig into the skin.
Keeping it together
One nylon bolt on each side of the top of the front shield holds the belt together.
The original design had two bolts on each side with a lock in the bolt. The bolts are not
wide enough and will break easily. The lock through the holes is much more secure and only
occasionally get turned around to dig into the skin.
Other ideas
In the pictures you'll notice some blue tint on the straps and belt where the straps
connect. This is the remainder of my attempt to use plasti-dip to line the inside.
Although the plasti dip provided a bit more comfort and made the whole thing look rather
nice, it started to peel shortly after it was put on.
Effectiveness
As I have been locked in for six days now, I can't keep my mind or hands off my
wife. I also can't get my hands on my shaft. with a snug front shield, I can push a
fingertip just inside the top part of the tube. This allows for some cleaning but nothing
more. The slightest thought of an erection and I could not even get a finger tip in the tube.
My small finger can barely touch the tip of penis and the end of the tube but gets me nowhere.
Because the side of the tube curves all the way up, there is no room to pull my member from the
top and out of the tube. Even if I could, it certainly could not be put in without removing
the belt. Most every night I get a butt plug or large dildo locked into the rear to drive me
absolutely nuts. My wife at first was not thrilled or even interested in the idea of a chastity
belt but now as she has seen it's effect, she has decided not to let me out and will be storing
the keys away from home so I could not persuade her to release me even if she wanted.
Future additions
The last and final piece to add to my confining device will the pleasure device for my
wife. She would to try to find a realistic dildo closely matched to my penis shape and size
to mount on the front of the shield. This would allow her all the pleasure she wants and I
would most definitely be obliged to give her the pleasure.
Parts |
| Plastic Trash Can | $ 3.50 |
| Electrical PVC elbow | $ 2.50 |
| Nylon strap | $ 1.75 |
| Nylon screws | $ 3.00 |
| Super glue | $ 2.75 |
| Funnel | $ 1.90 |
The whole thing can be less than $ 20 but if you don't have a dremmel tool, I
suggest you get one.
Please post this to your site, I only hope this info is helpful as your site has been
very helpful to me. I only ask that my Identity (name or e-mail) is not released.
Sincerely;
Secured in Plastic
[ Back to home built chastity page ]
Page last updated 00-Nov-10 by:
Altairboy@aol.com