Owners Manual for Male Tollyboy Belt
Submitted by: Anonymous
Re: Male Tollyboy Belt (MB 100) Key No. 5097
Dear New Owner,
I hope you enjoy your belt as much as I did before I outgrew it.
I do not have the original guidance notes that came with the belt, but I think I can
remember the important items as follows: -
Radial Locks.
Whilst the two radial locks are identical in every way, Hal recommended choosing a
particular one, with which to always lock the waistband, and sticking to that arrangement
thereafter. You have two keys for each lock, but since you have matching locks, this
means you have four keys, any one of which will open both locks. The locks are stainless
steel and do not need maintenance or lubrication. Hal said they are designed to operate
`dry', this does not mean they need to be kept dry. I would personally recommend that
you put a bit of tape over the openings, just to keep out bits of soap when showering. This
is my own suggestion, I appear to be alone in this recommendation.
You will notice that each lock has a "flat" section on its circumference. If you look at the
back of the lock it can be seen opposite the name Tollyboy. Hal said to always fit the lock
with the "flat" uppermost.
Operating the Locks.
There is only one correct position for the key to enter the lock, you will know when you
have found it, as the key will move into the circular groove. Thereafter in order to turn
the key in the lock you must apply slight pressure, into the lock, whilst turning the key.
This ofcourse applies both to locking and unlocking. If you do not maintain this slight
pressure whilst turning the key, the key will stop turning immediately. When this
happens, just make sure you have the key correctly aligned with the lock and apply the
pressure and it will turn as desired. The sheath lock takes about 12 no. half-turns of the
key to fully close the lock. When it is fully closed there is a solid feel to it as the lock
suddenly tightens. The waistband lock takes about 10 no. half-turns of the key to fully
close, but it does not have the same solid feel about it. You must always make sure that
the two surfaces, which are being screwed together, are closely fitted and correctly
aligned. If done correctly the key turns freely and with no noticeable resistance to the
turning action. NEVER OVERTIGHTEN.
As you will see, the key acts as a screwdriver and screws the lock onto the threaded post,
which is between the two locating posts. Do not use this screwing mechanism as an aid to
bringing the two surfaces together, you should hold the two surfaces together and then
apply the lock. This is particularly applicable to the waistband lock. Make sure the radial
lock is also correctly aligned, it needs careful alignment at the start to avoid `cross-
threading' when screwing the lock. If you feel it is not turning freely then unscrew it and
try again. The lock never resists the turning of the key unless you are cross-threading it or
forgot to add the slight pressure to the key, as mentioned earlier.
Adjusting the Belt's shape.
There is some degree of flexibility with the belt, which can either be taken advantage of
at the time of fitting or left to allow the belt to `mould' itself to your body. After a few
days of continuous wearing it will adopt a stable shape. I found that with a slight
adjustment to the curvature of the waistband, it was more comfortable immediately.
Sheath positioning
As you can see, there are three possible options for the vertical positioning of the sheath.
It is best to find which one suits you by switching between them. Experiment with the
three positions by locking the belt, without you inside, and then observing how the sheath
sits and how the space between the main guard and your body would vary. When in the
relaxed state the sheath is accommodated by the body in that place just between the legs.
However, if you allow arousal to occur, the sheath will be slightly displaced downwards,
which tends to `pull' the waistband down and applies pressure on the pelvic bone. The
solution to this is obvious.
It is not necessary to obtain help in fitting the belt; two hands are all that is required. One
hand to hold the two surfaces together and the other to turn the key. Fit the waistband
first and you are recommended to apply talcum powder to each side of your waist to
make things more comfortable. A little talcum between the legs also helps long-term
wear. Flex the waistband and slide it on `sideways' at the start, i.e. minimize the opening
needed to get it around your waist. You will find that the two ends of the waistband will
actually engage, somewhat securely, without the lock, this is due to the excellent
workmanship by Hal. This is very helpful in allowing the belt to be fitted easily by the
wearer and confirms the alignment is correct.
Fitting the sheath.
Next fit the penis into the sheath, a little baby oil as lubricant inside the sheath is
recommended. Do not use things like petroleum jelly as it can spoil the neoprene linings
with time. Baby oil is absorbed by the skin and does not cause problems. I expect
you are familiar with the "Nylon Stocking Trick", which is an excellent way to pull the
penis down into the sheath. Turn the stocking inside itself so that you have a double thick
stocking. Fit the stocking into the sheath with the open end uppermost. Slide the open end
over the penis, about halfway up should do it. Now, you must place the stocking-clad
penis tip into the top opening of the sheath (with just enough pressure to let the next stage
of pulling succeed) and pull on the inner layer of nylon at the lower opening of the
sheath. The stocking will grip the penis and pull it through easily. When you are fully
fitted into the sheath, either the stocking will slip off or you can pull the outer layer of
nylon to release the stocking. Keep the sheath pointing down between the legs; do not let
it point up. I am sure you know why this is needed.
Engaging the Sheith.
Next lift the main guard up and engage the spigot, on the front of the sheath, into the
slotted opening on the main guard. Slide the sheath down, whilst pulling up the main
guard to secure it to the waistband. Choose which one of the three vertical positions you
want for the sheath and use your thumb, from behind the guard, to push the locking posts
through the appropriate openings in the main guard. Now engage the main guard at the
waistband. You need to get the verticality right to be able to engage all three posts. If you
are aroused this will tend to prevent the sheath from being accommodated centrally
between your legs. It will tend to be pushed to one side or the other of your crotch and
thus the verticality of the main guard will be upset and the three locking posts will be
difficult to align. The simple rule is do not get aroused or you may have to wait a bit.
Fitting the locks.
At this point you should be able to secure the waistband lock, taking care to do it slowly
and carefully (see note above). Pinch the plates together, with the fingers of one hand and
turn the key with the other hand, until there is no movement and the lock is suitably tight.
Finally, apply the sheath lock. The sheath can be vertically adjusted in position, without
the need to remove the belt.
Hal Higginbottom's advice.
This next advice comes from Hal Higginbottom's guidance notes; for some reason I have
no trouble remembering it.
In the early stages of wearing the belt, you should periodically inspect the area of skin, at
the underside of the base of the penis, between the legs. This is where the sheath will
apply "occasional" pressure. It may be a little bruised and perhaps even discolored, but
the skin should not be broken. If it is broken, then this requires action and you should
wait until it heals before refitting the belt.
"There will be many excuses, received from the wearer, as to why the belt should be
removed, but the only genuine one is this possibility of broken skin. There is no reason
why the belt can not be worn indefinitely."
Best regards,
The former Owner
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Page last updated 99-Oct-21 by:
Altairboy@aol.com